"Into the garden we play"

In July, 2012, I assisted Leoni Blue, a talented fashion photographer and editor-in-chief of NOCTIS Magazine on her shoot in Cuffley, Herts. It has only been recently I have scanned in the behind the scenes photographs that I personally took on my point and shoot camera, because I had for some time misplaced the rolls of 35mm I took on the day.

Professional I know. 

Nonetheless, I still wanted to share the experience and from where I live, the travel time to Cuffley [on a number of trains] is about 2hours and 2minutes... providing you know where you are going. 

When I eventually arrived in Cuffley [on my own], it started to rain. Hard. 

After being close to tears about being lost I stumbled across a post-man; finally someone I could ask for directions! He explained to me that I was heading in the right direction BUT on foot, like I was, it would take at least another hour. This was time I didn't have and time I didn't want to spend in the torrential downpour. 

He offered me a lift as he was heading that way, and though dubious at first, I accepted. 

Cuffley is a beautiful location and the kind postman gave me a narrated tour of the road; it was a very wealthy area with many a footballer taking up residence there. The house opposite where I was headed housed Myleene Klass. 

Here are some of the frames I took. 

Below is the final outcome by Leoni Blue; the shoot was published as a webitorial on the NOCTIS Magazine website

Femme Sole Zine

Sophie Elliott is a photography student at Norwich University of the Arts; she will graduate in May and aims to work in journalism.

Alongside her studies she runs a blog for feminist fashion, which is the basis for a small zine she is working on entitled Femme Sole Zine. She says the theme of the blog and zine is "anti-fashion", by which she means the inclusion of all women within the fashion industry, regardless of size, age, colour or sexuality.

Sophie kindly took the time to talk to us about her work and upcoming project. Read what she had to say here.

Since studying for a photography degree, how do you feel you have developed your practice?

I've definitely gained an understanding of the real world. Our tutors always encourage us to treat every brief as a live assignment, so that involves talking to galleries if your work is intended for an exhibition. In my case it's been an exploration of publishing and photography. I've always been interested in publishing and since studying I've discovered so many different mediums for print that I didn't know about before.

What sparked your keen interest in journalism?

As I said before, I've always been interesting in publishing - this started at a young age, when I was determined to be a writer. I've always loved writing and as I've grown up have moved away from fiction and into blogs and articles. I love writing, I love photography, and I love publishing, so a career that combines all of this things - whilst giving me a voice to express opinions and convey messages - would be amazing.

Have you always had an interest in feminism?

I haven't always actively had an interest, but I've always had this niggling voice in the back of my head that told me I was just as good as the boys. It's definitely down to my mother, who a couple of years ago left her job in order to become a feminist writer and blogger. When that happened, I realised how actively involved she was with the subject, and that led me to listen a bit more closely when people talked about it - leading to an inevitable interest in it myself. It opened up my eyes to something I'd been subconsciously taught all my life.

Where would you say you find your inspiration then?

I'm inspired by everything around me. I love going to exhibitions to see new work, and reading books about photographers I'd never heard of. I think black and white photography is beautiful, and have a soft spot for street photography and dark, eerie work. I'm also inspired by films and books, and narrative in general. If I have a specific project or brief I tend to look at similar work and then break it down into what I find wrong with it, and what could be done differently. Also, my parents inspire me a lot.

How did you set out to start your feminist fashion blog?

It was kind of in response to my photography course, where we're encouraged to work in a very commercial way to prepare us for the real world outside graduation. A lot of people on my course chose to follow the route of fashion photography, which I've always enjoyed as well due to the amount of possibilities. However everyone's work seemed to be influenced by the same photographers, shot in the same way, with the same colours and settings. Obviously the photos look great - they're all very skilled. But it's like the industry isn't moving anywhere because everything looks the same.

On top of this, every photographer chooses the same type of model: thin, young, and generally white. They're selling products to women who want to look like the models in the photos, forcing unreal ideals on young girls who aspire to be like the thin, glamorous models, and generally manipulating the general public. There's no transparency. Whereas, in reality, fashion is for everybody. It isn't exclusive, and you don't have to be thin, young or privileged to enjoy it. Making a statement through your style is a great form of expression, and there are hoards of feminist crafters and designers worldwide that aren't getting enough attention.

I want my work to focus on those people, and I want to make people realise that the fashion industry doesn't have to be the way it is - people just aren't willing to change. Fashion photography doesn't have to be degrading or manipulative. What's the point? All it does is marginalise people and contribute to patriarchal oppression.

You speak of working on a "feminist friendly fashion photography" project for university? Is this something you will continue with once you graduate?Definitely. The feminist friendly fashion photography is all for publication in the zine I'm working on, and this is something I will continue until it makes some kind of impact.

How do you keep these views in mind when you are creating new work?

I try to come with narratives or concepts within my work that have feminist undertones. For my newest shoot, Grrrl Scouts, we had the models wearing feminist badges and brooches in place of scout badges and the photos have a very organic and natural feel to them. I don't really like forcing models to pose in unnatural ways, or putting them in a setting that is wildly inappropriate to the theme. There's nothing manipulative about my work. I also try to ensure that nothing I photograph can be construed as offensive or triggering.

What can we expect to see in the Femme Sole zine you are working on?

The zine will be constructed from both my own photography, and submissions. The photography will generally be based around feminist-themed fashion, whilst the submissions can be on any subject so long as they're feminist. It'll be a small publication and hand-made, and will be available internationally by the beginning of March. The blog for zine, femmesolezine.tumblr.com, pretty much covers the subjects that will be looked at in the zine, as well as extras in the form of daily updates and impromptu articles.  

Has it been a challenge to create your zine? How did you go about setting it up?

It was to begin with because I didn't know how to get people involved, but in the end I reached out on Tumblr and Twitter, and currently have over a hundred subscribers. Through the blog I have managed to circulate calls for submissions and casting calls, and have been able to keep people informed of events, plans and upcoming shoots. I've also been able to update on a daily basis, creating relevant and up-to-date articles that aren't big enough to be in the zine, but would interest the readers.  

What has the general reaction to the project been so far?

It's been very positive. I haven't had any online haters, yet, and everyone who has responded to the blog has seemed genuinely interested in the idea. I hope that once the first issue is out, there'll be more curiosity about it. I want it to reach anyone interested in the subject, but it's a slow and natural process and I have to be patient.  

What do you aim to achieve with this project?

I want women to realise that what they see in magazines isn't real, and that they are so much more than the caricatures portrayed in advertising. I want them to know that there is a whole community out there of people just like them, and to understand that their appearance is nobody's business but their own. They own their bodies, their styles, and their lives. You can dress how you want.

All I'm doing in the zine is showing people my own little ideas and concepts, not imposing rigid trends. In the end, I really want magazine editors to realise what they're doing by portraying this warped reality, and how it is harmful. It's not difficult to change, either. Even magazines that claim to be women-positive engage in these practises. Sex doesn't sell, it degrades. Manipulating a woman's paranoia to sell a product isn't necessary. And models don't all have to be thin, young and conventionally beautiful.

YOU CAN SEE THE PHOTOGRAPHY WORK OF SOPHIE ELLIOTT HERE AND KEEP UP WITH HER ENDEAVOURS TO CREATE FEMME SOLE ZINE [AND SEE MORE IMAGERY] HERE

See this post on the NOCTIS Magazine blog here

5 minutes with Vidur.

Designers Raj Mistry and Richard Brand are the creative minds behind VIDUR. Together, they oversee all aspects of the design and creation process of their collections. 

Their designs are slick and refined, and look wonderful in monochrome. While only one half from a fashion design led background, Vidur. hone together with a shared gold... to design and create menswear that is "elemental, functional and enduring". While it is still an early endeavour, each piece holds an air of elegance, yet a sense of edginess and an alluring "street-cool" shines through. 

Beauty lies within the details of every piece of work, and the Vidur. ethos will inevitably evolve and become increasingly refined over the years. They have a happy-go-lucky attitude, but they don't want their garments to be "throw away" pieces of fashion. 

With a clean surface and the ability to layer durable fabric, the practicality of these designs makes you wish that the winter season lasted a little longer. Vidur. set the new precedent of hem variations, shirt tails, and slouchy relaxed lines and we spoke to both Raj and Richard about their brand and working practice. Read what they had to say here. 

How did you both meet, and equally as important, how was VIDUR. formed? 

Back when we were both studying in Edinburgh (Richard at the school of music and Raj at the college of art doing menswear) we worked for the same store that sold watches. Although we never actually spent a shift together we had mutual friends keeping us in the same ocean, but we’d never discussed working on a label at all, or anything even remotely close. By a complete stroke of luck/fate we bumped into each other at Raj’s graduate show before he went to the Royal College, got talking and the rest, as they say, is history.

AUTUMN/WINTER 2013 

Models: CJ Chukwumah & Shubomi Shonibare

Photographer: Oliver Benton 

Stylists: Olivia Rose-Hulme & Jeanie Muldownie

Having started little over a year ago, how do you feel you have progressed as menswear designers in terms of creating "functional yet enduring" garments?

Our overall aesthetic hasn’t changed, but as with anything creative, the more you do of it, the more a feeling you have for it and the more your ideas become clearly defined. We’re like a pair of 1 year old leather shoes – way past the initial breaking in stage and just entering the nicely worn in, comfortable stage.

Do you feel that working as a team helps you to develop your ideas?

Absolutely. We know eachother’s strengths well and are in sync when it comes to what we’re trying to achieve. For us both to have a sounding board to bounce ideas off keeps us in check and stops us from doing anything too silly/weird/wacky.

For our readers, describe a normal day at the VIDUR. HQ.

We’re actually pretty disciplined – we’ll set out what needs to be done that day and just get to it. Normally it all falls apart at lunchtime though; one of us is a fancy eater and one of us always wants beans on toast. You can guess who is who.

Where do you find your inspiration? Do you follow any of the current menswear trends?

We’re heavily influenced by Nordic design and its focus on durability, functionality and use of natural materials. This stays constant so in a way stops us from picking up on trends and fashions. That’s not to say we don’t keep our ear to the ground – what’s great at the moment is that there’s a massive spotlight on menswear with so many great designers getting the attention they deserve.

Who is your target audience? Do you have a particular image in mind when creating your designs.

There’s no particular stereotype. We hope whoever wears it has chosen it because they appreciate what we’re trying to achieve.

Do you start designing with a concept in mind or do you let your ideas develop as you work?

We work from the top to the bottom, like an upside down pyramid. We look at the season as a whole at the very beginning and treat it as one body. Then we start drilling down into garment styles, its function, the pattern itself, details, finishing and all the other smaller but still really important points. Throughout all this, fabrication and production stay at the front of our minds.

Is there anyone in the industry that you admire, and why?

We’re big fans of Jeff Griffin – he’s been plying his trade since '94 and is good friend of Raj’s. The way he takes ‘urban vs country’ aesthetic always works well. More recently James Long has really impressed in use of knit [he’ll be Raj’s design tutor at RCA next year}.

Could you describe your work in five words?

Elemental, functional, enduring, timeless (but) contemporary.

Do you have any exciting plans for 2013?

We’re in the process of completing a pre-SS14/resort capsule that we’ll develop into the full mainline collection. Anything else would be telling!

WWW.VIDUR-MEN.COM

See this post on the NOCTIS Magazine blog here

5 minutes with Helen Kirkbright

Helen Kirkbright is a Fashion photographer based in London and Manchester. For issue VI ofNOCTIS Magazine she photographed the wonderfully cool Mary Benson collection [see photos] and collaborated with our beauty editor for the "Diamond in the Rough" beauty spread. Looking at the work of Ms Kirkbright, she appears adaptable, a chameleon if you will. She took the time to answer a few questions for us, read what she had to say here.  

You photographed for the Mary Benson interview, how was that? Are you a fan of her designs?

Yes I love her stuff. I am a total magpie and love anything shiny. I was already following Mary on Facebook before the shoot came up so when it did I jumped at the chance to shoot her collection!

How would you describe your work?

That is a hard question! I guess I like the images to look beautiful but the girls to look strong. I like photographing girls who have personality with maybe a bit of tomboyish edge. All that floaty girly stuff isn't really for me!

Are you currently working on anything exciting?

Well I am starting to do a lot more images for musicians and already have a few booked in which I am very excited about plus three fashion editorials to shoot by the middle of Feb... after being very lazy over Christmas 2013 has suddenly got very busy!

Does your fashion work influence your personal photography?

I would say more so the other way around. A lot of my personal work is point and shoot... after months of shooting planned and considered fashion stories it is really nice to just go somewhere new with a camera and photograph everyone and everything, its great to be able to treat your profession as a hobby again. When you photograph spontaneous moments there is a real atmosphere and storytelling within the images that I then take and try to apply within my fashion work.

What plans do you have for 2013?

Well in terms of work plans I would really like to try and make some videos this year. It is not an area I have worked in before but it has always interested me. I have been wanting to start a new personal project for a while now so maybe that is the medium for it! Other than that I just want to keep shooting!

I have a lot of new years resolutions too, I do them every year without fail! This year I am giving up chocolate until my birthday in June, It is going to be so tough.

WWW.HELENKIRKBRIGHT.CO.UK

See this post on the NOCTIS blog here 

Introducing: Cherri Pi

NOCTIS strive to inspire you, NOCTIS strive to keep you coming back.

We think it's important to see what's out there, see who's trying to do something good with their life, and to see what we can do to make a difference. Every now and again, we like to give you something different, a spout of inspiration if you will. We interviewed aspiring model and former Paralympian, Cherri Pi; known to many as Leanne Stephen.

She uses a wheelchair, bu read what she had to say about moving from behind the lens, carrying the Olympic torch and what her dreams are. She always likes to relax in her underwear, but who doesn't do that now and again?

When did you first start modelling, how did it all begin?

I've always loved photography and found myself studying it at college. I loved having a specific idea and making it into something solid, so for a while i was behind the camera. As a present, my mum bought me a "Makeover Day" session with a friend, I had my hair and make-up done and had photographs taken. It made me seriously think about the disabled models in the industry, to put it simple I could name very few, if any at all. I decided I wanted to try and find someone who had a disability similar to mine, so that they may share the same passion about wanting to change the perceptions of the public on what 'disability' was. It wasn't long before I decided to do it myself.

That was about two years ago and I haven't looked back. I absolutely love modelling with a passion but really you could say it happened by accident, I never intended to be a model more a 'role model' I guess :)

The type of "disability" itself isn't important because that isn't our focus, but did it cause you any problems at first? 

When I was younger I guess; times were a little different to the way they are now. Having a disability was 'different' and 'weird' - people had their own opinions about it and I guess still to this day they do but it seems more positive and hopefully it can only continue this way. Previously to modelling I was part of the Great British Paralympic Table Tennis Team for 10 years. I think with London holding the Olympics/Paralympics people were exposed to disability in a positive light. I'd also like to say I carried the Olympic Torch, yay!

Since modelling I can honestly say that, touch wood, I have had no problems caused by having a disability; at the end of the day it is one of the main reasons I want to model and being 'different' is something I'm proud of. Just because my 'difference' is perhaps more obvious than some others peoples, surely doesn't mean anything and if everyone was the same then life would be pretty boring. I now strongly believe that it isn't my problem, it's other peoples. If they can't accept disability then they need to sit down and think about what it's really like.

What are your dreams and ambitions?

Ideally I just want to change peoples perceptions of 'disability' and create a positive image. I believe that there should be disabled models in the industry too as 'we' can do the same job as anyone else, granted some things may have to be different but so what? Different is good and everyone is beautiful.

I would love to be a role model for other girls in a similar situation to me and make them feel better about themselves, give them confidence to feel beautiful and for them to realise how beautiful they are.

How do you set out to show you can work just as hard as everyone else in the industry?

I suppose in a way I do feel I have to prove myself and feel that I have to thank photographers for believing in me, supporting me and accepting who I am as a person and what I want to achieve. I do that by always giving 110% into every shoot to create the best possible outcome.

I feel I'm a friendly and reliable person, I always arrive to shoots on time and I like to bring my own ideas to a shoot and work as a team with the photographer. I like to have good communication and always like to be well prepared; Whilst shooting, I'm always considering different ideas and most of all I push my body to the absolute limit

I guess the thing that proves how hard I work is the point when photographers turn round and say,

'I've really enjoyed this shoot, I totally forgot you even had a disability'

Job Done!

As a model, describe yourself in 5 words.

Hard Working, Determined, Reliable, Positive, Unique/Different :)

I know you mentioned being open to new, creative ideas but do you have a preferred style of working?

I don't really have a preferred shooting style as I believe that being able to shoot in different styles / themes is another good trait of a great model. Shooting different styles opens more doors and more possibilities for me in order for me to achieve what I want to in terms of being accepted as a disabled model. I don't necessarily want to be known as a disabled model - perhaps just a model that happens to be disabled.

Having said all that, my bright red hair has lent itself well to finding my way into doing lots of pin-up style shoots and I do really enjoy those. I have a bit of an obsession with victory rolls in my hair!

So tell us, what do you do in your spare time?

I actually work in a gym (another thing I wanted to prove disabled people could do) but when I'm not working or modelling I guess I just do pretty 'normal' things like everyone else. Spending time with my family and friends is really important to me, they've always been so supportive in everything I've done. I love to chill out in my undies, listening to music and reading. I also have a big passion for tattoos and drawing, I love the art and skill involved, and love being creative myself.

What plans do you have for this year, both personally and professionally?

In terms of modelling, I want to continue going forward. I'd love more people to support me and what I'm trying to achieve. 

I'd like to work with new photographers and build my portfolio, maybe even get involved in some events and offer advice to other people in a similar situation. I'd absolutely love to get more publications this year and work with exciting clothing brands, jewellery companies and bands. 

Personally, I really want/NEED to go to the gym more, it generally makes me feel better. I don't really know what else I want to happen as in all honesty my personal life revolves around my modelling life.

What happens happen.. 

Finally, where do you see yourself in 5 years?

I'm going to be honest. I don't really want to look that far ahead yet incase things don't quite happen that way. I've learnt to just take every opportunity as it comes and not really plan because if I get excited and it doesn't happen there's only one feeling.

After saying all that in an ideal world I'd love to be known as a model (that happens to be disabled) not a disabled model. I'd love to be supported by a well known model agency. Having that support would mean a lot. 

I'd love to get to the point were people know me as 'Cherri Pi, that model girl' :) ... In 5 years I'd like to be able to say that I'd be happy in a stable relationship and in my own house. As long as my family, friends and myself continue to be happy and doing what we love while discovering new friends and challenges along the way then life can't be all that bad can it? 

YOU CAN KEEP UP WITH THIS LOVELY INSPIRATION VIA HER
FACEBOOK PAGE

See this post on the NOCTIS blog here

Photographing for the Noctis Magazine Blog

PHOTOGRAPHER - JODIE SHEPHERD

MUA - CHARLI AVERY

STYLIST - LEAH ADAMS

STYLIST ASSISTANT - GRACE JEAN LOUIS CONSTANTINE

MODEL - MARY [FROM FIRST MODEL MANAGEMENT]

Clothing Credits
First image Dress by Traffic People
Second & third image Dress by Traffic People, Jumper by Rokit
Fourth image Skirt by China Doll Boutique, Silver top and jacket by Rokit. Headband stylists own
Fifth image Skirt by Topshop, jumper by Beyond Retro, Shoes by Topshop
Sixth image Skirt by Beyond Retro, Top by Traffic People, Jacket by Hedonia, Shoes stylists own
Seventh image Vintage cardigan
Eighth image Necklace by Carole Tanenbaum
Ninth image Hat by Urbancode

Special thanks to Kitch and Honey PR, Dust PR and Foundation Agency

See this post on the NOCTIS blog here

You can also take a look behind the scenes with Charli Avery here